The Bizarre Wagah Border Crossing Ceremony

Wagah Border Crossing Ceremony

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A border dispute has become a daily party.

India and Pakistan share a single border that cuts straight through the town of Wagah: the eastern half sits in India, and the other half in Pakistan. Border conflicts killed countless people in both countries back in 1947 – and decades later, skirmishes still kill thousands.

At the sound of a bugle call, the representatives of both countries – the Pakistani Rangers, and the Indian Border Security Force — march quickly to the gates. Upon stopping, these guards throw forward one leg, as high as their own heads, and stomp it down to the ground. This is done while glowering fiercely at the opposite side. They than announce their contempt for each other with strong, emphatic displays of thumbs-down.

This is all done to the cheers of thousands, while quieter spectators sit nearby munching popcorn. Thousands folk to this gate every evening, to cheer on their respective teams on either side of the border. Tourists and locals alike relish the stylized dispute which, at least for a few moments, vents national tensions without the usual hail of bullets.

Equal amounts of rope are measured off on the flagpoles of both countries, so that both flags lower in tandem. Upon the lowering of the flags, the guards must give a few final stomps. Representatives of both countries then complete the ceremony with a quick, cursory handshake. The gates are then closed, sealing the border for the evening.

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